Lyon

Wow, today was a long day. I ambitiously decided to tackle Lyon as a day trip, and while I saw a lot, I am also pooped. I even made detailed plans yesterday outlining my stops and downloaded the subway map. I usually don't do this, as I like to wander around a city, but I figured that Lyon's larger size and multiple attractions called for a more structured approach.

After getting my unlimited public transportation day pass and a map, my first stop was probably the most eye-catching structure in all of Lyon. It sits high on a hill, and I had to take a quick funicular trip up to see it.

Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière

The funicular ride was kind of interesting; it goes through a tunnel, and reminded me of a roller coaster heading up its tracks (erm. Not that I have a lot of experience with that). Once on top, the basilica was immediately outside.

So hard to fit these cathedrals in one frame!

This is a much newer cathedral than the other ones I've been seeing (dates back to the 1800s), so while not nearly as intricate, there was something about the clean lines that was appealing. The insides are currently being renovated so there's not much to see, but I thought the tile work on the floor was pretty.

How do you not step on a crack?!

Don't these remind you of rooks (chess)?

While the cathedral is relatively young, historically speaking, my next stop was to something much MUCH older. There are still some Roman ruins found in the Fourvière neighborhood, and an amphitheater that is still used today. I can't find any information on whether it has been restored recently (I imagine that it must have been), but the original structure dates back to 15 B.C.!!

Acoustics must be fantastic

People getting ready to put on a show

With all this climbing up and down slopes and stairs, I was feeling a little hungry. I headed back down to the neighborhood of Vieux Lyon, where cobble-stone streets are lined with local restaurants called Bouchons. Now I've read that there are technically only 20-odd restaurants in Lyon that have been certified as bouchons, but many many others have copied the name in order to attract business. I didn't think my palate would know the difference, so I just picked one with menu items that sounded intriguing.

A Bouchon is a traditional Lyonnaise restaurant, serving hearty meat-centric food. Originally meant for the working masses (meaning cheap), it is now popular with tourists and locals alike. I am not squeamish about eating offal, so I went all out and ordered some meaty choices that utilize parts of animals rarely seen in American joints.

Oh dear. I sat under a comfortable yellow canopy for lunch... which means that my pictures of the food don't exactly look appetizing. You'll just have to believe me when I say that it was tasty.

Assiette du Canut 

The red slices on the right is beef snout, and the little white lumps are diced calf feet. Both are served cold and pickled, and some mayonnaise with the calf feet. The white lump is a local Lyonnaise cheese called "Cervelle de Canut", literally "silk worker's brain". Fortunately, no silk workers were actually harmed in the making of this cheese. It has a very tangy flavor and is flavored with dill. It reminded me a lot of Greek tzaziki. The snout tastes a lot like some of the offerings in a Chinese cold appetizer platter, except more vinegary. The feet were just little lumps of cartiladge; if you like that sort of texture, then it's tasty. I liked all three things on the plate, though I wanted something non-vinegary to have in between bites.

Tripe Lyonnaises

Whew. This tripe was stinky! Most non-Asian tripe I've eaten had been braised to utter softness; this was not the case here. This dish is hearty, with strong flavors and a very meaty texture. Once I got used to the gamey smell, it actually tasted delicious. I didn't like the potatoes on the side though; they were mushy and overdone.

For dessert, I was so full that I just ordered a scoop of ice cream. Total cost of the three courses came to about $18. Originally, I had planned to take a river boat tour after lunch, but after looking at my itinerary, I didn't think I had time for that. No food coma allowed! Must! Trek! Onwards!

I headed up a hill again, to the neighborhood of Croix-Rousse. This was the old silk workers quarter, and home to dozens of traboules (hidden side streets). This was a really fun neighborhood to walk around, with lots of staircases that snaked between streets, beautiful views of the city below, and artwork everywhere.

Looking down Montée de la Grande Côte

Wood carving in a window

Very modern street art

Where does this hidden street lead?

I eventually made my way down the hill, and ended up at city hall. French city halls really put American ones to shame.

This is City Hall!?!

Doesn't it look like Darth Vader?

I was still feeling pretty full, so I thought it would be safe to head over to Lyon's largest indoor food market. Many of the shops were closed for the afternoon, so it wasn't quite as bustling as it normally would be, but I still saw a lot of things I wanted to buy!

So many types of anchovies!

Stinky cheese

Mmm. Snails.

Trippy cake

I managed to only buy one thing at the market. There's a popular local cheese called St. Marcellin, which is supposed to be similar to a mild Brie. This will be part of my lunch tomorrow, so I don't know how it tastes yet!

I will be coming for you, my pretty.

As the afternoon winded down, I realized that I was getting pretty tired. Luckily, my last stop of the day was a leisurely one. I hopped on the subway one last time to get to the Parc de la Tête d'Or. This is a huge park, offering fields of soft grass, beautiful views of a lake, a free zoo, and botanical gardens. I only managed to walk a small portion of this park before it was time to go.

It was a beautiful summer day

Huge planters of... ?

Not an ostrich... I think a rhea

Whatchoo lookin at?

I have a feeling I missed a lot of sites in Lyon. I didn't step into a single museum! Maybe I'll come back for another visit some other time!