Spanish food, of course

I wouldn't be 'always hungry' if I didn't have a plethora of food pictures to go along with all the scenery and architecture, eh? The food I saw and ate in Barcelona was wonderful, and therefore warrants its own entry.

I did a lot of research before heading to Barcelona, and it was hard to decide where to eat with the limited time I had. In addition, Spain is sadly one place were solo eating is at a disadvantage. My stomach can only fit so much, so ordering everything on a tapas menu just wasn't feasible. Still, I managed to see a lot, and eat some delicious food.

I arrived at the Barcelona airport right before 2pm in the afternoon. As lunch is considered the main meal of the day there, many places were still open for business. I already had a place in mind, and so madly dashed to the train that took me out to city center. By 3:15 or so, I was tucking into this plate of beauty:

Grilled prawns, clams, and teeny octopi, all topped with lemon and a divine parsley oil.

La Paradeta is a local casual eatery that pretty much only sells seafood. When you arrive (and there's usually a line!), you stand behind a counter very much like one from the supermarket. An array of fresh seafood is arranged before you, and a helpful lady behind the counter grabs and slices portions of what you want. She sends it to the kitchen then, to be grilled or cooked in marinara sauce, and off you go.

The seafood I received was extremely fresh, and cooked perfectly. The shrimp was sweet with a firm bite (I hate overcooked mushy shrimp with a passion), and the octopus had the most delicious little charred bits on its tentacles. The clams were good too, but not as great as the other two (maybe the Chinese part of me just wanted some black bean sauce). I kind of wish I picked something else as my third choice, as the clams ended up being pretty pricey.

At the end, it wasn't the best deal I've had in seafood (the meal, as seen above along with a hunk of bread to sop up all the lovely lovely juices, cost just under 19 euro). But as a first meal in Barcelona, it was a delicious way to start the trip.

For lunch on another day, I had plans to visit a place I found online that was supposed to have a great set menu for 10 euro. When I got there though, I felt a little blah about their day's menu, and ended up next door instead. Of course, I now wonder if I would have had a better meal at the original spot, but alas, one can't eat everything.

Set lunch at Miriot. This was described as 'supreme salmon on crispy sesame squid and
cuttlefish paella'. The fish was flaky and cooked well, though the paella fared a little
less well, being rather greasy.

Set lunch dessert, mango 'soup' with ice cream. This ended up being quite good and
refreshing.

For 10 euros though (12 after tax and a marginal tip), this three course lunch was a steal.

In addition to visiting restaurants, I was naturally interested in some of the food markets that dotted the city. The most famous of these is La Boqueria, located near the touristy Ramblas. Frankly, I don't think I saw many locals at this market (and the few I saw were insanely annoyed at the rabble), but this didn't diminish the market's charm one bit.

La Boqueria! A hungry hoarde descends....

Okay, I don't care that this mainly is aimed towards tourists. Look at all the Spanish ham for sale!

More ham. There must have been a dozen vendors, all selling meats. The hardest part was trying to figure out which
place to patronize!

In addition to ham, there were lots of stands selling fresh fruit.

Fruit juices, in dozens of delicious combinations! Should I get the raspberry kiwi? A classic pineapple coconut?
Ooh, but strawberries are in season. I ended up getting a refreshing strawberry mango juice.

It really seems like everything in this market is brightly colored! Here is a candy stall. Look how cute some of
these candies look! Now I wish I bought some!

A combination meats AND cheese vendor. 

Okay, I had to get some meats. There were many options, but I stayed away from the
lighter-colored, thinly sliced Serrano ham, and got this thicker cut. It was great; there
was a sweetness to the meat (which, is supposedly from the fact that the pork was acorn-fed),
and it wasn't too salty. Many of these little portions were sold in paper cones, but this
particular vendor sold them in what hilariously looks like french fries containers.
This was PLENTY of ham for a snack, and only cost a little over 2 euros.

Shrimp/prawns seem to be huge in Spain... so many options!

I guess locals also shop here for their seafood!

Too bad it was a chilly day; otherwise, these fruit pops look like they would be so good!

The European version of 鹹魚. Salted, preserved fish... probably a staple protein for many many cultures, many many
years ago. Now, they're a delicacy!

Besides the meats, I ended up grabbing a few small bites to nibble on while wandering the market. It was extremely crowded though, so I didn't take any pictures.

Finally, I was able to stop off at a small eatery for a few pinchos/pintxos before leaving Barcelona. Many of these small bites were displayed right on the counter, leaving me manymany options to choose from. It was so hard to decide!

On the left, a piece of pan tomate topped with ham. The sweet saltiness of the ham was
paired perfectly with the tomato, and the crunchy bread provided an additional texture.
On the right, some poached shrimp served cold. It was very light and refreshing.

Toast topped with a soft Spanish cheese, an anchovy, and a small pepper. The cheese was
mild and reminded me of ricotta, which set off the salty anchovy and pickled pepper
perfectly.

On the left, a salted cod (bacalla) fritter. On the right, potatoes with an aioli. While
tasty, these last two dishes were a little heavier, and made me wish I stuck to the
cold pintxos instead. Overall, the meal wasn't expensive, costing about 10 euro total.

Looking through these pictures again makes me hungry! I wish I could describe in better detail, just how different the ham tastes in Spain, utterly different than anything I've had before in the states. I got curious, and so looked it up on the internet. Apparently, jamón ibérico (or pata negra) wasn't available in the U.S. until as recently as 2007. The highest grade, jamón ibérico de bellota, was sold in the states starting from 2008, and costs almost $100 a pound. No wonder I haven't had this before!

But the jamón ibérico de bellota is indeed something special. There's a complexity of flavor that elevates it from being just a piece of salty dried meat.  Luckily, traveling within the E.U. means that I got to bring some back with me to France (at the relatively low price of about $40 a pound. Also, I snagged a bag of bits of ends for just 4 euros)! My favorite kind of souvenir. :)

Barcelona

As a Christmas present, my sister and brother-in-law very nicely got me plane tickets for Barcelona. Spain is a country I often thought about visiting, but never had the chance previously. So this week, I brushed off my long-forgotten high school Spanish, and went for a short visit. Hm. Wait, the official language of Barcelona isn't Spanish?? 

Barcelona is located within the Catalonia region of Spain, thus the language most commonly spoken there is Catalan. As a matter of fact, the people of Barcelona really consider themselves Catalonians rather than Spanish, and there is a fierce pride in their heritage. So I googled a few Catalan phrases, and off I went!

I stayed in a small room in Barcelona city center, near their Arc de Triomf. Public transportation was extremely convenient, and a fanatastic deal with their 10-trip card costing less than 10 euro. 

Barcelona's Arc de Triomf. With its brown-red color, it looks more festive than the
one in Paris! I think it's quite smaller in size though.

A beautiful fountain inside Parc de Ciutadella, located just across the street from the Arc. This fountain was
designed by Antonio Gaudí.

Italian and French art and architecture may be world renowned, but their Spanish counterparts aren't any slouches either. The most famous in Barcelona has got to be Antoni Gaudí. Many of his distinctive buildings are dotted throughout the city, culminating in the stunning Sagrada Familia. I ended up spending a lot of my time viewing his work.

The Sagrada Familia. It is still an unfinished work! 

A zoomed out view of the Sagrada Familia. The sheer size is breathtaking, and is
unfortunately not something that can be captured in pictures.

The back (front?) of the Sagrada Familia.

I enjoyed seeing Gaudí's work, mostly because a lot of it seemed so organic in nature, with its wavy lines. His ironwork and use of stained glass was also beautiful, reminding me of undersea lairs.

Casa Milà, or more commonly known as La Pedrera.

Casa Batló. This definitely looks like an evil seawitch castle, no? 

I ended up taking a tour of one of homes that Gaudí designed: Palau Güell (seriously, all the accents and diaeresis are making this entry tough to write!). Located in the Gothic Quarter, this lavish home was rather subdued from the outside. Large parabolic gates signaled the entrance, so armed with an audio guide, I stepped into wonderland.

Palau Güell looks pretty normal from the outside, none of the flowing lines and
dramatic ironwork like the other buildings pictured above.

A view of the parabolic iron gates from the inside. A unique feature of this gate is that
the twists in the center make it possible to see outside, but when you're outside, you
can't see in! Quite the marvel for its time.

The basement. This was originally used as the stables of the house. Although it was a
basement, the space was quite airy, made possible by the arched ceilings.

The main room in Palau Güell. This was used as the main entertainment area, for both
religious and secular activities. The acoustics in the place was phenomenal; one of this
room's main purpose was as a music hall.

A view of the amazing ceiling. It is domed, and consists of hexagonal tiles that gradually
diminish in size. The various cutouts brought in light, day or night. There were also
many windows that opened out into the center room from above, all for different reasons.
The most interesting one I found was that the choir for music performances were housed
in one of these upper rooms. When the windows were open and they sang, the acoustics
made it seem like their voices were floating around the room from all directions.

One more picture of the main room. Beyond, you can see from the window, other
rooms in the house.

I don't know if I had magnificent, or terrible timing... I decided to visit Palau Güell on an overcast, drizzly day. I was warm inside out of the rain, but the terrace area on the roof was closed due to weather. It's supposed to be quite beautiful up there, so I was a little disappointed.

Luckily, I had nice weather for some of my visit, and I spent many of these hours roaming around what turned out to be my favorite area in the city. The Gothic Quarter is one of the older neighborhoods, and it is composed of tiny streets that wind back and forth in a veritable maze. In rain or shine, it seemed like a place out of time, especially when street musicians' songs would waft by. 

The Cathedral of Barcelona. With its Gothic architecture, this beautiful building fits in perfectly with the neighborhood.

Small pedestrian streets lined this neighborhood, which was understandably filled
with tourists. Even then, there was an unmistakable charm to the place.

A unique circular courtyard.

Another impossible tiny street.

The interior of the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. 

I found Barcelona a lovely place to visit. Unlike many cities I've been to, its streets are very wide and welcoming (outside of its older pedestrian neighborhoods), almost beckoning visitors to stroll on foot. An abundance of benches everywhere also offered relief when one got tired. A unique feature of its streets is that often there would be a wide, tree-lined 'island' in the middle of the road, and cars would traverse on both sides of it. The center would be left for bicyclists and walkers. 

A compelling mix of the old and new, Barcelona offers much for both its residents and visitors!