Hauling Pavement

Wow; by a rough google maps guess, we've covered about 300 miles by bus over the past 2 days. Let's rewind and get caught up!

After a day in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), we started on our journey towards Cambodia and headed to the border town of Chau Doc in the Meekong Delta. Despite the murky color of the river, this region is actually rich with wildlife and is famous for its rice growing (it produces half of Vietnam's total rice output!). After settling into our simple rooms, some of us took a boat tour around the river to see some local sights.

Chau Doc is surrounded by the river and dotted with various fishing communities all around. Because of the flooding in the area at certain times of the year, most of the dwellings are either built to float, or are mounted in stilts. Many of the abodes contain a small fishing farm inside; a cage lines the underwater area of the house, and fish are placed there until they are large enough to send to market.

Fish splashing around as they are fed

Once again, this area was obviously poor, and the people lived in very simple surroundings. I saw children bathing in the river, while adults rowed boats around to deliver their day's fare to the markets. All of it highlights the fact that I lead a very luxurious life.

The next morning, we prepared to say goodbye to Vietnam. We were taking a 45 minute bus ride to cross the Vietnam/Cambodia border. Prior to that, my breakfast: a banh mi sandwich filled with meat and pate, pickled veggies and cilantro. It's a baby version of what I usually have in New York (it's a 6-incher or so), but it cost only 50 cents USD.

For the price, I could have 4 of these!

Found a new snack! Lychee flavored Sugus!

Once we arrived at the border, we were required to leave the bus and cross on foot. I was a little wary about the situation and so there are no pictures, but the whole process was interesting. The officials were overall on the friendly side (I suppose that they are happy to have money-spending tourists in their country), and the visas were easy to obtain. Within an hour or so, we were all back into a van heading towards the beach town of Sihanoukville. The ride to Sihanoukville was long and bumpy, but it was totally worth it once this view opened up in front of us.

This may be paradise!

The hotel is beautiful, with large rooms and comfortable bathrooms. I am going to sit back and relax for the rest of the day!

Got a great night's sleep!

And now for some gratuitous pretty beachy pictures.

The way to Saigon is through your stomach

Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh City as it is called now) is one bustling place! By far the most modernized city we have visited so far, I have been amazed by the variety and amount of local food in the streets. From early morning breakfast vendors to a bustling warehouse market, I can't even begin to identify some of the dishes offered. All I know is that some of this looks seriously tasty, and that everyone seems to be pretty hungry most of the time. While I don't have the time or stomach to try eating it all, here's a brief pictorial of what I have seen during one morning/afternoon in Saigon.

Skewers for breakfast?

Fruits and veggies

Sweet pastries

Waiting for business

Pho is a popular breakfast choice

Banh Mi assembly line

I have no idea what is in that pot

Dried Shrimp, anyone?

One way to keep hydrated in this hot city

Some kind of fried dough, I think

Clams and snails waiting to be sauteed

I have no idea what she's serving

Mmm. Ingredients for yummy drinks

She certainly has lots of customers!

Nha Trang

Wow, I can't believe that I'm halfway through the tour!

We are now in Nha Trang, home to one of the most popular beaches in Vietnam. The background is stunning, with the contrast between white sands and mountains in the distance. There is so much to do in Nha Trang, and I have so little time! Cable car rides and snorkling and island hopping... ehhh... I think I'm going to take it easy tomorrow and relax on the beach. And maybe get a massage. :)

As for today, I visited a mud bath! No pictures, since I didn't want to ruin my camera. I wasn't sure what the experience would be like, but it ended up really interesting. I pictured that I would go to an outdoor area with pools of thick mud which I would spread all over myself. In reality, you pay $5 to get into a resort-like area. After rinsing off, you are directed into an outdoor tub that is then filled with a muddy slurry. You sit in there for about 15 minutes, rinse the mud off, and then go soak in another tub filled with hot mineral water. I think the mud and water are supposed to be good for your body and skin. I don't feel too different, but it was kind of fun to get dirty!

Tonight was a lot of fun as well, as it was the first time I've gone dancing in a while (it was a... club-by bar?). I definitely didn't last too long though; it's time to call it a day and get to bed!

Hoi An

Another day, another hotel. In Hoi An, my luggage got its own bed!

Hoi An is well known for its many many tailor shops, so the group went off to have custom dresses, jackets, and suits made. The workers are incredibly fast, with a 1 day turnaround on most items. I really didn't need any more clothing, but it was a lot of fun to window shop. These tailors can pretty much make anything you want; casual clothes to cocktail dresses, shoes and handbags too!

We've been incredibly lucky with the weather so far. Yesterday morning was overcast and ended up perfect for a 3-hour bicycle ride around the Hoi An countryside. We biked past multiple rice paddies and got to see where exactly the rice comes from (harvest is about 3 weeks away). There were small family farms everywhere, with neat rows of vegetables and herbs. Chickens would randomly cross the road, and children ran around waving at us happily. It was so serene and idyllic that you have to admire the people for their simple way of life.

Rice stalks. Once it blooms, the 'flower' portion becomes
the actual rice grains.

Low-tech but efficient way to water the farm

Peaceful and quiet

It seems like every day brings a new mode of transportation as well. During our bicycle ride, we had the opportunity to get close to some water buffalo, who are resting until harvest begins in a few weeks.

These gentle giants were incredibly patient; they were obviously trained to help around the farms. Most of them were grazing in the fields or lying in the shade, but one of them was brought into service for us to ride! I wondered if he would get annoyed at carrying a bunch of tourists around, but he didn't seem flustered at all. I imagine that it is probably harder work to pull a plow around the fields.

Cute little fella!

buff-a-lo, buff-a-lo

It didn't feel like we went very far, but the tour guide said that we had cycled for 18 kilometers (around 10 miles)! I'm definitely working off all the food I'm eating. We rode a boat along the river with our bikes to return back to the hotel.

Fishing for lunch

Hoi An is an interesting city to visit. Tourism is very high and the price on goods mostly reflect that. I really enjoyed seeing the countryside; life was simple, and the people worked so diligently. And even though they lived in tiny houses, the locals seemed content to be working alongside the earth. It's a reminder that happiness is a choice and not something that just gets handed to you; there can be satisfaction in the most mundane of tasks.

Next stop: another overnight train ride, and then the beautiful beaches of Nha Trang!

Chowing down

I really have neglected to showcase what I've been eating lately! There's been so many activities that food has taken somewhat of a back seat for now. But I have had a few interesting and delicious dishes in Vietnam.

Best pho so far was in Hanoi. It seems like pho in the north is eaten much more simply than in the south. There are only a few condiments (no huge pile of bean sprouts), and no one was pouring copious amounts of spice into the soup. As a result, this soup was amply flavored with a rich salty broth. The noodles were fresh and springy, and the herbs added a burst of freshness. Cost: 35,000 dong, or $1.68 USD.

For dinner one night, we went to a restaurant called "Fish in Banana Leaf Restaurant and Bar". So what do you order in a restaurant like this? Why, fish in banana leaf, of course! A filet of red snapper is cooked with lemon and shallots and pepper and green onions; the fish soaks up every bit of flavor and the result is delicious, especially when eaten with a nice pile of white rice. Cost: 85,000 dong, or $4.08 USD.

Many of the restaurants we have been visiting are slightly Westernized versions of local cuisine. I asked the tour leader if he could recommend a truly local place, and he brought several of us to a fried chicken joint. A couple tables were set up in a small alleyway in front of some vats of oil; there was no menu, as the chicken is the only item they serve. A incredibly flavorful chicken is poached first then fried to order, and a quarter is served on top of a bed of flavored rice and a side of fresh greens. Cost: 25,000 dong, or $1.20 USD.

And of course, what would the visit be without some Vietnamese coffee over ice and condensed milk? This one was served at a riverside restaurant in Hoi An. Cost: 15,000 dong, or 72 cents USD.

And finally, an evening splurge at an all-you-can-eat joint. After winding around several tiny streets, we ended up in another alleyway set up with foldable tables and chairs. As soon as we sat down, a feast started to arrive. Skewers of grilled pork and minced pork meatballs, spring rolls, Vietnamese pancake, and all assorted accoutrements (sauce, greens, pickled veggies, rice wrappers) appeared like magic. Pineapple was also served as dessert. The cost for this feeding frenzy? 100,000 dong, or $5.00 USD.

Funny enough though, I don't think I've gained any weight on this trip so far. There has been too many activities, and too much sweating. So I feel free to partake in everything I'm seeing! Fingers crossed... none of the food has disagreed with me so far!

Beautiful Country

Just a few Kodak moment shots for today. Our bus took the famous Route 1A heading south from Hue to Hoi An, and we were treated to some amazing scenery as the giddy twists and turns took us up and down mountains. Everything is so incredibly lush and green in this country, and we have been really lucky with getting fantastic (albeit hot as hell) weather.

Trains, Buses, and Motorbikes

I have completely lost track of time! I don't know what day of the week it is, and forget sometimes just how long I've been in Vietnam so far. I think I'm about 2 days behind on my posting, so let's get updated!

After a gloriously fun time at Halong Bay, we drove back to Hanoi to get on an overnight sleeper train down to Hue. Somehow I suspected that a train experience in Vietnam wasn't quite going to be like riding the TGV or Eurostar. :)

All aboard!

Each car was divided up into about 8 compartments with 2 bunk beds each (total of 4 beds). A toilet was located at the end of each compartment. It was definitely on the cozy side, but was amply and thankfully air-conditioned. The toilets though... definitely left a lot to be desired. Let's just say that I tried not to drink too much water, and made copious use of antibacterial gel (thanks, Pui!).

Compact but relatively comfortable

The whole trip took about 14 1/2 hours. The ride was definitely bumpy and loud compared to the smooth rides in Europe. But you know... speeding through the Vietnamese countryside at night while sitting in a train compartment with 5 other people chatting the evening away... it was definitely something special and very memorable.

I ended up not sleeping too well, and woke up every time the train paused at a station. I gave up on sleep just as the sun was coming up, and was treated to some beautiful scenery as I looked out the window. Fields of rice paddies, serene lakes shining off mountains, tiny villages with chickens in the front yard... I definitely was in a whole new world. The funny highlight was when I saw a water buffalo lumber around and chase some ducks into a canal. It unfortunately happened too quickly for the camera to catch, but I did get this view:

Lush paddies of rice. Second harvest of the year!

We finally arrived in Hue around 10:30am local time, and checked in immediately at our hotel to drop off our things. I was starting to get excited around this time; every day has been such an adventure... what will today bring??

Nice and clean!

After a quick lunch, we found a bunch of motorbikes waiting for us outside the restaurant. Ooooh, what is this? A nice after-lunch afternoon ride? Sign me up! Each one of us got a driver and a motorbike, and within a few quick minutes (safety helmets ON!) we were on our way!

Vroom vroom!

Once again, there are pictures of me on a motorbike, but they are on someone else's camera! They will get uploaded when I get the pics. Suffice it to say that I was armed with nothing more than a helmet, sunglasses, and dopey grin on my face.

Don't run over the cows!

The ride was fantastically fun. We zoomed around Hue to look at various old ruins and war bunkers and temples; this was so much faster than walking! It wasn't scary at all to ride backseat on the motorbike; our drivers were pros and definitely knew what they were doing. And although we did have to weave around some traffic, it wasn't nearly as bad as Hanoi. We eventually made our way up to soak in some fantastic scenery as well.

What a view!

Local lady making a hat

Pretty pagoda

Listening to monks chanting

We are SO COOL.

We ended up biking for about 3 1/2 hours; this was a fantastic deal for $15 total. So much fun!

I've been getting really lucky with my hotel room views too. At dusk:

Lovely city!

Hue was definitely a very fun city to visit. It's not as hectic and crazy as Hanoi, but still bustling and full of things to see. The day flew by, and I was a little sad to see that we were only slated for one day in Hue. But after a good night's sleep, we were all settled into a very comfortable, large, air-conditioned private bus for a 4-hour drive from Hue to Hoi An.

I have to say that the pacing of this tour is really well planned; we have had really fun activities to do in each city (all optional). And now, just as we're feeling a little tired, we get a nice bus ride and a 3 day/2 night stay in our next city.

Updating about the bus ride to Hoi An will have to wait until tomorrow though. This has been a long post already, and I have an 7am wake-up time. Until the morrow then!