Chowing down

I really have neglected to showcase what I've been eating lately! There's been so many activities that food has taken somewhat of a back seat for now. But I have had a few interesting and delicious dishes in Vietnam.

Best pho so far was in Hanoi. It seems like pho in the north is eaten much more simply than in the south. There are only a few condiments (no huge pile of bean sprouts), and no one was pouring copious amounts of spice into the soup. As a result, this soup was amply flavored with a rich salty broth. The noodles were fresh and springy, and the herbs added a burst of freshness. Cost: 35,000 dong, or $1.68 USD.

For dinner one night, we went to a restaurant called "Fish in Banana Leaf Restaurant and Bar". So what do you order in a restaurant like this? Why, fish in banana leaf, of course! A filet of red snapper is cooked with lemon and shallots and pepper and green onions; the fish soaks up every bit of flavor and the result is delicious, especially when eaten with a nice pile of white rice. Cost: 85,000 dong, or $4.08 USD.

Many of the restaurants we have been visiting are slightly Westernized versions of local cuisine. I asked the tour leader if he could recommend a truly local place, and he brought several of us to a fried chicken joint. A couple tables were set up in a small alleyway in front of some vats of oil; there was no menu, as the chicken is the only item they serve. A incredibly flavorful chicken is poached first then fried to order, and a quarter is served on top of a bed of flavored rice and a side of fresh greens. Cost: 25,000 dong, or $1.20 USD.

And of course, what would the visit be without some Vietnamese coffee over ice and condensed milk? This one was served at a riverside restaurant in Hoi An. Cost: 15,000 dong, or 72 cents USD.

And finally, an evening splurge at an all-you-can-eat joint. After winding around several tiny streets, we ended up in another alleyway set up with foldable tables and chairs. As soon as we sat down, a feast started to arrive. Skewers of grilled pork and minced pork meatballs, spring rolls, Vietnamese pancake, and all assorted accoutrements (sauce, greens, pickled veggies, rice wrappers) appeared like magic. Pineapple was also served as dessert. The cost for this feeding frenzy? 100,000 dong, or $5.00 USD.

Funny enough though, I don't think I've gained any weight on this trip so far. There has been too many activities, and too much sweating. So I feel free to partake in everything I'm seeing! Fingers crossed... none of the food has disagreed with me so far!

Hanoi

Walking around in Hanoi during the daytime has been like a session of bikram yoga; you end up tired and dripping with sweat. Even though the official temperature was a balmy 94 degrees this afternoon, it actually felt more like 106 with the humidity at 86%.

I have met up with my tour group, and I'm really enjoying the experience so far. The group is relatively small (15 people), so it has been easy to chat and get to know the others.

And because I am lazy today, there will be few words, mostly pictures.

Lady hawking her wares, including shrimp and what
looked like maggots.

Buildings in the Old Quarter

Birdcages in a storefront

Motorbikes everywhere. I saw a whole family
of four on one motorbike yesterday.

Ho Chi Minh mausoleum site, guarded by dozens of armed
soldiers. The enbalmed body of Ho Chi Minh can be
seen, and it is CREEPY. No pictures allowed inside.

Tower at the Military History Museum.
Climbing up and down the steep stairs felt
wildly dangerous.

In addition to the military history museum, we also visited the Hao Lo Prison. Whereas art has been the primary focus of museums in Europe, the intent of the museums here so far has been to remind visitors of the hardships that this country has struggled through. Both the prison and the military museum highlighted war, with very blatant displays of death. Death row prison cells were open for visiting, and graphic pictures of de-bodied heads were shown next to a guillotine. I ended up going through the museums in deeper thought than anticipated, and it didn't feel right to take pictures. 

TANK.

Look how close the tracks are to the houses!

Pho. Yummy.

Jiminy Cricket Culture Shock!

I have arrived, safe and sound in Hanoi after an 11 hour flight! The flight was on time, and I breezed through customs in about 2 minutes. There was a huge line for the 'visa on arrival' counter, but since I already received my visa in New York, I was able to skip the crowds.

... not that it helped me though. Once I hit the main lobby, I was at a compete loss. I don't speak the language, I can't even try to read it... I ended up sitting for a few minutes to get my bearings. It's kind of funny because in the interim, I've been mistaken as Vietnamese a couple of times already. So my original (cheaper) plan was to take a Vietnam Airlines shuttle into the main city, and then cab it over to the hotel. But alas; I took one look at the empty, shady minibuses outside and I chickened out. I ended up taking a cab directly from the airport (which took 1 hour and cost $17 USD).

Wow. I mean, I knew to expect a very different atmosphere than I've ever seen before... I watch plenty of Anthony Bourdain! :P But the reality has been quite overwhelming. So. Many. Motorbikes. I feel like I don't know how to cross the road anymore! And yes, there are dozens of little hole in the wall places on every block offering all assortments of food. I really don't know how I'm going to stomach a steaming bowl of pho in this humidly oppressive heat, but I am sure going to try!

This is going to be a fun few weeks... it's so unlike anything I've come across before and I'm definitely looking forward to it.

On another note, my room is significantly better than what I was expecting. I paid extra for single occupancy, so this is where I'll be staying for the next 2 nights:

Not bad, eh?

Jetlaaaaaag. The bed is calling my name for a nap before my tour meeting this evening.

Next stop: Hanoi

In a blink of an eye, it seems, my month in Europe is over. Tomorrow, I fly out of Paris into Hanoi, Vietnam. This will be my first stop as I meet up with a 20 day tour that will take me through some very interesting cities in SouthEast Asia. We will be taking trains and private buses along the Vietnamese coast, eventually making our way into Cambodia and Thailand. Rough itinerary looks like this:

I am looking forward to this relative complete change in language, culture, and food. I do find it funny that I am leaving France to go to a country that still shows much French influence from colonization. What I'm not looking forward to so much is the weather, as it is currently monsoon season in much of Vietnam, with daily highs often reaching past 95 degrees. 

I leave France with many fond memories; it has been a delight to be able to explore without feeling the usual tourist time constraints. Paris is a wonderful city to explore on foot, with its small winding streets and old intricate architecture. There is so much to see (and eat); I could be here for a year and not experience it all.

What I may remember most though isn't necessarily the fancy stuff. There were a few relaxing afternoons where I bought some bread, and headed to a park for some reading. Sitting in the shade (Paris has fantastically comfortable chairs in the park, perfect for a nap), I looked up every once in a while to enjoy the view. Ah, until next time, Paris!

Au revoir!